Fitting a Dressage Saddle

It is essential to fit a dressage saddle correctly so that the horse and rider can be as comfortable as possible. An ill fitting saddle is of no benefit to either the horse or rider and can create all manner of back problems for both.

Nowadays the modern dressage saddle has come a long way, whether it is with the innovative use of air in the saddle panels (CAIR) as used in Bates dressage saddles or by using more traditional materials such as wool flocking as in Black Country dressage saddles, the aim of the saddle panels is to allow for an even distribution of weight across as wide an area as possible on the horses back.

The width at the front of the dressage saddle is also very important. A wide gullet is better suited to warmbloods and most other breeds with their flatter withers and back whereas a narrower gullet is better suited to thoroughbreds.

If you have a wide saddle on a horse with a narrow back and high wither all the saddle will do is press down on the withers and give the horse a very sore back. On the other hand, put a narrow saddle on a flat withered horse and not only will the rider end up sliding towards the back of the saddle and thus throwing their leg forward making them unbalanced it will also pinch the horse and he will not be able to freely move through the shoulder.

Luckily there are now dressage saddles available that can have their gullet width changed with the turn of a screw which means that if you change horse or if he develops a large muscle mass around the shoulder area (such as with a stallion or some warmbloods) you may well not only be able to keep your favourite saddle but also save money so whereas they may be more expensive at first, they will save you money in the long term. The Bates Caprilli is one such saddle.

All saddles should be fitted without numnahs.

You should be able to see a clear way from the back to the front of the saddle through the channel over the spine of the horse but without the saddle sitting too high on the horse's back.

Looking from the front, how does it sit? If the pommel sits high above the withers this is an indication that the saddle is too narrow. Slip your hand sideways between the pommel and the horse's withers. You should be able to get you hand in straight, if not it is too wide for the horse.

Check the length of the saddle. If it is too long it will put pressure on the horse's loins.

Look at the saddle panel stuffing from the back of the horse. It should be equal on both sides, if it slopes on one side it will create an uneven pressure on the horses back and it will need re-stuffing.

Now get on your horse. Recheck the clearing between the wither and the pommel by standing in the stirrups and then putting your hand between them, if your fingers are pinched, the saddle doesn't fit. Check you can still see a clear way through the gullet by asking someone to look at you from the back. Ask them to also check you still sitting square.

Ride for about 15 minutes and check the saddle again. Not forgetting how you feel once you are on top, making sure you feed balanced and comfortable.

Does the Saddle Fit The Rider?

To check the saddle fits the rider follow these simple points.

1. If the saddle is too small the rider's knees will poke over the front of the saddle flap.
2. Is the rider sitting in the middle of the saddle? If the saddle slopes backwards the rider will slide towards the back of the saddle and his feet will poke forwards as in the old hunting style position. Should the saddle slope the other way towards the front, it will tip the rider forwards onto his crutch/fork.
3. Is the saddle sloping towards one side. This is easily fixed by having the stuffing checked.

How To Check For A Broken Tree

When buying a second hand saddle it's very useful to be able to do this before parting with your hard earned money.

Check that the saddle isn't sitting abnormally low over the withers, this may be an indication that the front arch is broken.

Place your hands either side of the saddle on the points and press firmly towards each other and then in opposite directions, listen for any clicks and watch for any movement. Usually if the tree is broken the movement will come either from under the arch or from between the stirrup bars up towards the arch. Should the point be broken below the stirrup bar you can usually get this fixed and in this case, take it to a saddler for a second opionion.

Now place your hands on the cantle, if it can be twisted, the tree is broken, you should not be able to move the cantle at all.

To check if the waist is broken, hold the saddle as if about to place it on the horse. Whilst holding the cantle in one hand and the pommel in the other, place your knee in the middle of the saddle on the waist, and try to bend it.

Rigid Tree Saddle

This shouldn't bend at all, if it's broken it will move either on both or one side. This can be mended by an experienced saddler who will reinforce it with metal plates.

Spring Tree Saddle

If testing a spring-tree saddle using the method above, the saddle will have some movement at the centre of the seat and waist. It should feel as if it wants to "spring back" into shape, should it be damaged or broken it is likely that there will be more movement on 1 side as this is where spring-tree saddles are more inclined to break. It can be quite easy to mistake a broken spring-tree with a soft, well used spring-tree saddle and because of this it may well be better to take it to a saddler for confirmation. A broken spring-tree cannot be mended.

One further thing to check for is a "twisted tree". A twisted tree can be seen by standing at the back of the saddle and looking at the pommel.  The cantle and pommel should be symmetrical.  A twisted tree can be caused by the rider gripping the cantle and hauling themselves up, never use a twisted tree saddle as this will injure the horse's back.